Musee des Arts Forains: Step into a Parisian Wonderland of Vintage Fairground Arts

Prepare to be transported to a whimsical bygone era at the Musée des Arts Forains, Jean-Paul Favand’s extraordinary collection of antique county fair rides, captivating objects, enchanting building façades, stunning statues, and nostalgic photographs. This hidden gem offers a truly unique and magical way to experience Paris, especially during the enchanting winter months when its special events truly come alive. More than just a museum, it’s an immersive journey into the heart of Belle Époque entertainment, promising wonder and delight for visitors of all ages.

The Fascinating History of Jean-Paul Favand’s Collection

The story of the Musée des Arts Forains is as intriguing as its contents, reflecting the lifelong passion of its founder, Jean-Paul Favand. A former actor and antique dealer, Favand began collecting fairground and showground artifacts over four decades ago, driven by a profound desire to preserve these enchanting remnants of popular entertainment. His initial acquisitions were humble, but his vision grew, transforming into a magnificent effort to safeguard the magic and artistry of fairground traditions for future generations.

Favand’s ever-expanding collection was housed in two other temporary locations before finding its grand, permanent home in the historic Pavillon de Bercy, located at 53 Avenue des Terroirs in the vibrant 12th arrondissement of Paris. The collection was first displayed in Gentilly, a commune just outside of Paris in the Val de Marne region. From there, it moved to the 15th arrondissement, a significant step closer to the heart of the city. Finally, in 1996, this extraordinary assortment of wonders made its way to the Pavillon de Bercy, a space perfectly suited to its scale and character. This painstaking relocation process ensured that each unique piece, from delicate automatons to robust carousels, was carefully preserved and meticulously reassembled, allowing its timeless charm to continue captivating new audiences.

For many, including myself, the desire to discover this incredible space has simmered for quite some time, precisely because of its elusive public opening hours. It’s a testament to its allure that a visit here feels like uncovering a rare treasure, a secret world waiting to be explored.

To truly grasp the enchanting atmosphere, take a peek inside in this video of the Musee des Arts Forains:

The Grand Setting: Pavillon de Bercy, A Former Wine Warehouse

The chosen home for this magnificent collection, the Pavillon de Bercy, is a destination in itself. This sprawling complex of warehouses was originally known as Les Chais à Vin L’Heureux, a gigantic space once dedicated to the production and storage of wine. Imagine the rich history steeped within these walls, transitioning from the aroma of aging wine to the vibrant energy of a perpetual fairground. The very structure speaks of transformation, from industrial utility to artistic celebration.

With an astounding total area of 11,400 m² (over 122,000 square feet), the scale of the venue is absolutely breathtaking. From the moment you step into this incredible space, you are immediately struck by its sheer size and the overwhelming number of spectacular objects, intricate statues, and functioning vintage rides that fill every corner. The vastness allows for distinct thematic “salons” or halls, each offering a unique immersion into a particular aspect of fairground artistry or historical period. The high ceilings and robust architectural elements of the former warehouses provide a dramatic backdrop, enhancing the sense of wonder and making each display feel like a grand stage, ready for a performance.

Exclusive Opening Hours and Special Events

As mentioned earlier, the Musée des Arts Forains is famously exclusive, rarely opening its doors to the general public. This scarcity only adds to its mystique and charm, making a visit feel like a truly privileged experience, a rare invitation to a secret world. It typically opens just twice a year for public enjoyment, each occasion being a highly anticipated event:

Journées Européennes du Patrimoine (European Heritage Days): In September, the museum participates in this annual European event, offering a precious opportunity for a guided tour and a glimpse into its treasures. These days allow visitors to explore significant historical and cultural sites that are often closed to the public.
Le Festival du Merveilleux (The Festival of Wonders): This is arguably the most magical period, typically spanning about a week from late December into early January. During this time, the entire museum and its grounds come alive with festive decorations, live performances, and special attractions. The exact dates vary slightly each year, so it’s crucial to check the official website well in advance if you plan to immerse yourself in this festive wonderland.

Outside of these designated public dates, the museum primarily functions as a magnificent and highly sought-after venue for private events. Imagine the sheer enchantment of hosting a wedding, a gala, a corporate event, or a special birthday party amidst the twinkling lights and vintage charm of antique carousels! It would undoubtedly be an unforgettable experience, leaving guests with memories of a truly unique and spectacular celebration. The ambiance here is unparalleled, providing an extraordinary backdrop that makes any event held within its walls instantly memorable and utterly magical.

Experience the Magic of Le Festival du Merveilleux

During the special period of Le Festival du Merveilleux, the Musée des Arts Forains truly transforms into an unparalleled wonderland, bursting with light, sound, and festivity. For the year referenced in the original content, the festival ran from December 26th through January 6th, offering a vibrant celebration of winter festivities. As noted, the museum is typically open every year for a little over a week during late December and early January, so always confirm exact dates on their official website when planning your visit.

In honor of Le Festival du Merveilleux, the inner (outdoor) courtyard of the Pavillon de Bercy becomes a magical Christmas wonderland. This bustling space is adorned with countless festive lights, elaborate decorations, and a heartwarming aroma that beckons visitors closer. It’s filled with delicious food stalls, serving up comforting treats like steaming hot mulled wine (vin chaud) and rich, creamy hot chocolate, perfect for warding off the winter chill. On our visit, we indulged in some absolutely delicious vin chaud – a perfect companion to the festive atmosphere. Beyond the culinary delights, the festival often features live performances, including talented magicians, agile acrobats, and charming puppeteers, all dedicated to bringing the spirit of traditional fairground entertainment to life. The air buzzes with laughter, joyous music, and the cheerful chatter of families and friends, all bathed in the warm, inviting glow of vintage lights, creating an experience that truly transports you.

A Journey Through Time: What You Can Expect to See Inside

The Musée des Arts Forains is not merely a collection of static exhibits; it’s a vibrant, interactive spectacle designed to awaken the senses and spark imagination. Visitors are invited to not just admire but often to participate, riding the antique carousels and trying their hand at traditional fairground games. The museum is thoughtfully divided into several distinct, themed “salons,” each offering a unique journey through different aspects of entertainment history:

The Venetian Salons: Here, you’ll be dazzled by opulent Belle Époque merry-go-rounds, including a breathtaking carousel made of exquisite wood and bronze, featuring fantastical creatures, elegant chariots, and gondolas. The intricate carvings, shimmering gilded details, and the gentle, melodic music transport you straight to a grand carnival on the canals of Venice, evoking a sense of European grandeur.
The Théâtre du Merveilleux (Theatre of Wonders): This captivating space is dedicated to illusions, fascinating automatons, and the magic of the stage. Witness sophisticated mechanical actors come to life, performing short, charming shows that harken back to the early days of spectacle and theatrical innovation, pre-dating cinema.
The Musée des Arts Forains (Fairground Arts Museum): This is the heart of the core collection, showcasing a vast array of fairground objects, old games, and attractions that vividly demonstrate the evolution of popular entertainment. From vintage strength testers to mesmerizing optical illusions and quirky fortune-telling machines, the ingenuity and artistry on display are truly remarkable, often inviting visitor interaction.
The Salon des Musiques (Music Room): Discover a captivating collection of antique musical instruments, including magnificent mechanical organs, orchestrions, and orchestrions that once provided the vibrant soundtrack to bustling fairgrounds and elegant dance halls. Their rich, full sounds fill the air, adding another deeply immersive layer to the overall experience.
The Théâtre de Verdure (Green Theatre): An open-air theatre space that transforms during the Festival of Wonders, often hosting unique performances, acrobatic displays, and musical acts, adding to the dynamic and lively outdoor atmosphere.

If you have a love for history, especially the glamour, innovation, and joyous spirit of the Belle Époque (roughly 1900-1920s), then this museum is an absolute must-visit. It’s a rare and precious opportunity to step back in time and experience the joy and wonder of an era when fairgrounds were at the pinnacle of public entertainment, offering escapism and delight to all.

Indulging in Delights at the Outdoor Food Market

During Le Festival du Merveilleux, the magical Christmas atmosphere extends beautifully to a charming outdoor food market located within the museum’s courtyard. The air is filled with enticing aromas of sweet and savory treats, and the sight of steam rising from large cauldrons of hot wine and hot chocolate adds to the festive cheer. It’s a sensory feast that perfectly complements the visual wonders inside the museum, inviting visitors to linger and enjoy the communal spirit.

The food offerings are served from an array of delightful food trucks, providing a variety of delicious options to satisfy every craving. We encountered classic British fish and chips from the famous Cabane de Cape Cod, a popular choice for those seeking comforting, hearty fare. Other tempting choices included a dedicated crêpes and waffle food truck, a perennial favorite for both sweet and savory versions, and a raclette and potatoes food truck, offering a warm, cheesy delight perfect for a brisk winter’s day. Unable to resist the allure of French culinary staples, we were particularly tempted by the crêpes. We started with two savory cheese crêpes, enjoying them alongside our delicious hot mulled wine (vin chaud), which was perfectly spiced. For dessert, we continued our indulgence with a sweet chestnut cream waffle and a classic chocolate and whipped cream waffle, both proving to be the perfect sweet ending to our festive meal. This outdoor market experience is an integral part of the festival, creating a lively, communal space where visitors can relax, refuel, and soak up the unique, joyous spirit of the season.

Step Back to the Roaring Twenties in The Prohibition Tent

One of the most captivating and historically rich sections of the museum, in my opinion, is The Prohibition Tent. This meticulously recreated space offers a unique and thrilling glimpse into the clandestine world of the 1920s. It features an authentic pop-up tent, complete with a period-appropriate booth, a stage for lively entertainment, and a fully-equipped bar setup, all designed to transport you back to an era of hidden speakeasies and exuberant jazz culture.

The entire tent is filled with beautifully preserved decorative objects from the period. From authentic art deco lighting fixtures to vintage signs, ornate props, and carefully chosen period furniture, every single element contributes to creating an incredibly immersive environment. It’s not just a display to observe; it’s an atmosphere that truly comes alive, especially when animated by performers during special events or private functions. The attention to detail is remarkable, from the patterned fabrics to the carefully chosen glassware, every element contributes to the illusion of stepping into a genuine 1920s illicit gathering, where the music would have been swinging and the spirits flowing (covertly, of course!). Wouldn’t this be an absolutely amazing place to plan a special birthday party, a themed corporate event, or another truly unique celebration? The museum does indeed rent out its spaces for private functions, and my companion, Hugo, has actually been fortunate enough to attend two private parties hosted by his company within these extraordinary walls, attesting to its enduring appeal as a one-of-a-kind event venue.

Plan Your Enchanting Visit to the Musee des Arts Forains

The Musée des Arts Forains is more than just a museum; it’s an immersive experience that ignites a sense of childlike wonder and transports you to a dazzling, theatrical past. Whether you’re captivated by the intricate mechanics of antique automatons, the vibrant artistry of Belle Époque carousels, or the festive, lively spirit of Le Festival du Merveilleux, a visit here promises unforgettable moments. It’s a place where history comes alive, allowing you to ride, play, and immerse yourself in the rich tapestry of fairground arts, offering a truly unique cultural encounter in the heart of Paris.

Have you been dreaming of experiencing this unique Parisian treasure? We’d love to hear from you! Let us know in the comments below if you are planning to visit the Musée des Arts Forains on your next trip to Paris. Share your thoughts, anticipation, or any questions you might have!

Pin this magical Parisian experience for later!

Explore More of Paris: Related Posts

Don’t Miss These Charming Cafes in Paris!
Discover These Hidden Gem Small Museums in Paris!
Find Your Perfect Stay: Boutique Hotels in Paris!
Uncover Delightful French New Year Traditions!
Planning a Romantic Escape in Paris: Hotel Parister